December/January 2008
The Flavor of Atlanta
All Roads Lead to Southern Comfort Food
by Molly MacLeod-Roth
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Greenwoods on Green Street is famous
for its homemade pies and ice cream. |
Food is a major player in the character of any place. You can likely get a great hamburger anywhere, but some foods are
synonymous with a city. As clam chowder is to Boston, and cheese steak is to Philly, Southern comfort food is to Atlanta.
Even if you’re new to the South, you know the food: the fried chicken and collard greens, the macaroni and cheese and
buttermilk biscuits. It’s home cookin’ Southern style, and whether your mama or grandma cooked like this, or you just wish
they had, there are a number of restaurants in Metro Atlanta that serve up the best in local flavor. Just remember a few rules:
It’s best not to count calories, you better believe it’s homemade and yes, you’ll have the sweet tea.
Mary Mac’s Tea Room
When Mary McKinsey opened Mary Mac’s Tea
Room (404-876-1800, 224 Ponce De Leon Ave.,
LD) in 1945, women weren’t allowed to own restaurants.
The term “tea room” was used to show ladylike
refinement. Call it what you like, but Mary Mac’s
is an Atlanta institution. Step off the bustling street
on the cusp of Midtown, and you’re transported to
the genteel South of lore. Relax with the sweetest of
sweet teas and traditional Southern favorites such as
buttermilk fried chicken and pot likker (ham broth
with turnip greens) with your cornbread.
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OK Café’s Chicken Wings |
OK Café
The OK Café (404-233-2888, 1284 West Paces
Ferry Rd., BLD) seems to be a modest name for
one of Atlanta’s most popular restaurants. There is
a cheerful neon sign on the outside of the OK Café
that lets diners know the estimated wait for a table
at a spot that serves more customers than any other
full-service restaurant in Georgia. But as they say:
It’s worth it. The staff is sincerely friendly and happy
to recommend from the sizeable menu (the squash
soufflé is divine). Grab a seat at the counter and
enjoy the line cooks’ good-natured banter, or avoid
the wait and take yours to go from their impressive
takeout area.
Greenwoods on Green Street
Southern comfort food isn’t pretentious, and neither
is the log cabin that houses Greenwoods on Green
Street (770-992-5383, 1087 Green St., Roswell, L
Wed.-Thurs., LD Fri.-Sun.). The cabin dates back to
the 1700s—the restaurant is a bit newer. This casual,
homey spot delivers something of a Southern/hippy vibe
with its legendary huge portions and deliriously good
homemade pies and ice cream. Think grits meets Grateful
Dead. Leave your cares and your plastic behind—
Greenwoods only takes cash and personal checks.
Bobby & June’s Kountry Kitchen
Bobby & June’s Kountry Kitchen (404-876-3872,
375 14th St. N.W., BL) is also located in a log cabin,
although this one sits in welcoming contrast to the
visible glass and steel of downtown development.
Bobby & June’s is all character. Take a break from
the bistros and fusion cuisine for simple Southern
fare. The front porch is full of knick-knacks, and the
dining room is full of a true slice of Atlanta life, as
well as fried okra that will make all guests eat their
vegetables.
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American Roadhouse offers irresistible
fare in an inviting atmosphere. |
American Roadhouse
Located in the eclectic and trendy Virginia-
Highland neighborhood, American Roadhouse
(404-872-2822, 842 N. Highland Ave., BL) defies
culinary fads. This comfortable neighborhood eatery
offers simple, fresh comfort food cooked to order.
Breakfast bustles with a mix of meetings and folks
perusing the morning paper. Offering some of the
self-proclaimed largest portions in the country, linger
over a chicken pot pie or a big plate of waffles to
watch the world roll by one trend at a time.
Matt’s Rib Shack
T-Bone Smith. Chicken Shack. Fat City Wild
Cats. Those aren’t specials at Fat Matt’s Rib Shack
(404-607-1622, 1811 Piedmont Ave. N.E., LD)—
they are some of the bands on the nightly live blues
docket at this casual barbecue joint. There isn’t anything
fancy about Fat Matt’s. The seating is first-come,
first-serve inside and out, and the menu is
short, sweet and painted on a board. Choose from
ribs, chicken, chopped pork and a variety of sides—
and take comfort in blues, beer and barbecue.
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The Flying Biscuit serves its namesake
biscuits in a trendy, eclectic space. |
The Flying Biscuit Café
There isn’t much that hasn’t been said about The
Flying Biscuit Café (404-687-8888, 1655 McLendon
Ave., Candler Park; 404-874-8887, 1001 Piedmont
Ave., Midtown; 404-816-3152, 3515 Northside
Pkwy. N.W., Buckhead; 770-321-4445, 1084 E.
Johnson Ferry Rd., Marietta, BLD). This Atlanta eatery
has been oft cited as an example of Southern comfort
food with a twist. Each location has the feel of an eclectic
home kitchen with oil-cloth tablecloths and mismatched
Fiesta Ware. The staff is funky and friendly,
and the food is rightly lauded. Southern favorites such
as creamy grits and the namesake biscuits will delight
any purist, and the vegetarian-friendly menu offers
new classics like black bean and cornmeal Love Cakes.
Try all of these local favorites—preferably not in one
day—and discover the flavor of Atlanta. Make yourself
at home with the sights, scents and tastes of Southern
comfort foods. When the food is this good, you’re
sure to become a regular.
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